Volunteering at an orphanage in Santa Barbara, Honduras :)

Island of Utila: 8 nights (4 nights too many), 1 certification to Scuba Diving, 1 night dive, countless mosquitos and sandflies attack, too many sleepless nights... Some would be thrilled to be on the island for the week of the island's "Carnaval", but I really couldn't soak up the atmosphere and simply couldn't sleep until the music stopped as we were located literally next door to the biggest bar/disco in town! And, my room had no windows aside from a curtain! At least I had a fan to keep the mosquitos at bay (got cold in the process, but I rather that than be eaten alive by them!)

I had chosen "Paradise Divers" as they were the cheapest on the island and the instructors and the dive masters seem very laid back and there was the fisherman who arrived with a Marlin, about 300 lbs... The Marlin was bigger than him!! One-line fisherman that took 4 hours to fight the fish and won... solo! In the end, the place was way too relaxed, and they were indeed cutting corners (never even received a scuba log book), and quite disorganized, really hectic, and the owners were extremely friendly but messy, dirty and just plain ... i dunno Islandy?? (actually they would make a great Simpsons like parody). One thing I've learned, if you don't ask, you won't get anything!! hehe what an experience it was with them.

Not to say that the whole experience was a disaster though! :p

Highlights:

• Fresh Tuna fish everyday as the fisherman stops by our deck first before selling his fishes to the restaurants! You would not believe, a pound of freshly fished Tuna for 40 Lempiras, equivalent of about 2$US... even though the kitchen was a loyal disaster, I cooked. I even ate it twice raw, everyone thought I was nuts, but then they all started doing the same... I've started a trend! :)




• The world from below is a wonderful experience!! Being able to swim in a living aquarium is mind boggling. Looking up, watching the sun rays coming down while seeing the schools of fishes in their natural habitat, has an almost voyeur aspect to their life, but yet enchanting. I can stay down there for hours, if they'd let me!!


• I saw a few Sting Rays, a beautiful Eagle Ray, a Sea Turtle, a Porcupine Fish (like blowfish), Spotted Drum, upside-down gellyfish, Spanish Lobster, lots of Parrot Fish, Tunas, Sea Spider, etc.


• Got to practice a lot of languages as the diving school was definitely a melting pot of travelers from all over :) Once again, I bonded easily with 2 Québecois, and the Germans and Austrians! The Austrians live in Vienna but didn't have the Viennese accent I was looking forward to hear :(

Everything was pretty pricey on the island, so I ended up eating a lot of "Baleadas" (typical Hondurenean street food, consist of a flour tortilla filled with beans, a dash of cheese and some marinated onions), more beans, eggs, cheese and fried patties filled with minced beef or chicken. One of the local gifted me a big local avocado called "Pera de mantequilla" (Butter pear). One of my dinner consisted of corn chips with guacamole! Not as tasty as Hass avocados (from Mexico) as it is more watery.

Once certified, I couldn't wait to leave the Island, as it gave me that same sense of restlessness. I would recommend the island if one wants to party and scuba dive. If you're not under the water, there isn't much to do. And too hot to read, so I just became a big veggie!!

Utila - San Pedro Sula (of passing) - Peña Blanca/Lago Yojoa.

Decided to visit Lago Yojoa, a natural lake surrounded by mountains. Peña Blanca is a tiny little town where the city center consists of 2 streets ... !! Where I get curious stares a lot and got a bit too much attention from the owner of the hotel I decided to stay as well. IAfter checking in, the owner chatted up with me and found out I was single and not married. He took my hand in his and started caressing it... asked me why I don't put nail polish, asked me what perfume I wear... I tried to take my hand away, but he didn't let me go. Until at one point I asked him "can I go now?", and he seemed to have woken up from a stupor and let my hand go. A lone man in a small town... Since I was the only person staying there, it was even creepier as he always came out to greet me as I came back to the hotel... and was even waiting for me outside my door in the morning. I was so creeped out that I did not dare take a shower (since it was outside), and didn't leave my room after dark! It will be the last time I will tell a man that I don't have a boyfriend!! Maybe I should say I am married. Hopefully that'll keep them off my back.

I went to visit an "impressive waterfall" (as per footprint, my guidebook), which is 42m waterfall. Took the local bus to get there, where the driver forgot to tell me to get off, so I had to walk back and met 4 high school kids with whom I did my first hitchhike on the back of a pick up truck. I enjoyed the chat as they walked me to the waterfall.

The waterfall itself is... a waterfall. It is pretty but aside from that, there isn't much to do other than swim in the lake. After swimming in the salt water of the Caribbeans, I forgot that the water from the lake is close to icy cold !! But refreshing :) There I met a lovely employee of the store as I sat down to chat with her, waiting for the torrential rain to pass. I learnt that the locals used to drink the water from the tap and get stomachache until a group of volunteers came from the US and donated water purification systems for them. Now they can purchase a tub of 20L water for 5 Lempiras (roughly $0.25US) from the church (as the pastor operates it now) and the money goes to maintenance of the system.

Once the rain stopped, I met this lovely Honduran family (Hernan, Patricia and their two children) that now live in the States. I asked for a ride and got on with them. On the way, they told me that they are on vacations for 2 weeks, 1 week to enjoy and 1 week is dedicated to help build a wallas well as a playground for an orphanage in Santa Barbara. Coincidently, I had plans to go to Santa Barbara as well on the same day and asked if I could help. A few phone calls later, I have a place to stay and a reason to live!

It has been just about a week now that I've been living in the orphanage. Needless to say that, the minute I arrived, I knew I wanted to stay. I felt right at home. The caretaker was a lovely lady called Mirna, who has 8 children herself but is helping out at the orphanage. And the children are just lovely! Some of the children only come to eat for breakfast and lunch. They are all excited to see a new face, and within seconds, I was hugged a gazillion of times and torn between children who want to share my affection. It is hard not to break down, as I was quite overwhelemd from the amount of love there was. The kids range from 2-15 yrs old and all they wanted was to be hugged, loved and fed. Quite a drastic lifestyle change from the island life, but I love it. I feel fulfilled, I have a purpose, I have a reason to be.

So far, I've learnt how to cook for 40 children (or rather watched and helped!), helped the group of 24 Americans to lay my first brick, learnt how to make a cement mix by using only shovels, painted, treated wood with anti-termite coating, played origamy with the kids, washed lots of dishes, taught some Spanish and English, etc. I barely have an hour for myself!! I had been given a choice to live apart, but I decided to stay with the kids and the caretaker. This way, I can really soak up the experience!

Every event has a value and is important for the following. Regardless of the creepy man, I was still glad that I made that trip because it brought me to where I am now, in Santa Barbara, volunteeriung at an orgaphanage. I have yet to decide how long I will stay here, but in the meantime, I am happy. I will take it one week at a time.

Hospitable Guatemalan family and onto Honduras

Recharged with positive energy from seeing my sister Angelica in Oaxaca (pic), I finally made my way down south towards Guatemala. Made my way from Oaxaca to Tapachula on an overnight bus, had a heavenly delicious "licuado de yaca", which is a blended fruit juice with jackfruit, milk and ice!! I thought I could only get jackfruit in Thailand/Cambodia! Wonderful combination! (If you're reading this, try it!) After the stop over, I headed onward to Guatemala City. About 20hrs bus ride later, I was pretty pooped. So when Luis (pic), my Guatemalan bus companian who's lived 20 yrs in the States offered me to stay at his home for a day before heading onward to Honduras, I couldn't refuse his generous offer as the thought of staying in Guatemala City (i believe more dangerous than Mexico City), did not appeal to me! I ended up spending 3 nights at his home, was treated like a family member, and was even offered the room of his mom. I felt really bad but Luis told me that such is the hospitality of the Guatemalans. I ate traditional Guatemalan food, kissed every member of the family about 3-4 times a day (as is per custom, after waking up, when leaving the house, when arriving home, when going to bed!), and served as a guineapig for Luis, as he was eager to become a tour guide in Guatemala after spending so many years in the US. What is there to complain when there's food, lodging, warmth, and good company :)

After a short stay in Guatemala (I intend to return, and even promised Luis' family (pic) that I will as they told me they want to prepare me more specialty Guatemalan meals upon my return), I headed onward to Honduras.

Bus trip: Guatemala City to San Pedro Sula (Honduras). Crossing the border consisted of getting off the bus, walking through a hole in a wired fence, turned the corner, and was pointed to the Honduran immigration "office". I've read a lot about Honduran officials demanding more than the usual required 60 lempiras ($3US), so I chatted up nicely the immigration officer and ended up leaving with a map of Honduras for a 1st time visit to the country :)

The ride was rather smooth thanks to dimenhidrinato (Gravol), which made me sleep through 9h30 of the 10h30 ride! As much as I dislike injesting tablets of any form, this was highly necessary as my last 2 long bus rides left me with nausea for 1 1/2 day afterwards each time. Not sure if my body is simply trying to cope with the wide change in diet, or from the 2/3 antibiotics treatments ... which as a result made me very vulnerable to motion sickness and I suspect that I may have a light version of hypoglycemic syndrome. Another life saver for sleeping through the ride is that, I later learnt that the toilet didn't work nor would the door close... so much to say that I bought the ticket through Galgos, a so-called "1st class" bus company. I only realized afterward that Galgos just served as a booking service and sent an un-uniformed guy to pick us from from their bus terminal to "Congolon"! Once I got onto the bus, my ticket was taken away from me, leaving me with no proof of purchase, leaving me quite uneasy. Welcome to Honduras! already more chaotic further south I go!

During the little time I was awake, I met my 1st Honduranian woman who told me of her difficult life conditions back at home. Lost her husband & 1.y.o baby in the same year, had no job, thus no food. Thus driven with desparation crossed the border without paper to Mexico to find a job by knocking door to door. She sends money home whenever she could via Moneygram or another company of the like, which charges an extortionary rate of fee + exchange... about 25% of her hard earned bread $ was lost in translation... We gave each other a heartfelt goodbye and exchanged a warm hug. This left me a bit shaken... onward I trodded on and took another bus to "Tela", a quiet beachfront city. Not much here other than a stop over town, in which I ate street fruits and got slightly sick again...

Tela to La Ceiba: 50km, 2 1/2 hr bus ride, $2US later (I don't recall the number of stops we made... too many!) I met the 1st ever Taiwanese traveler on my trip! He actually came from Taiwan to do a similar tour as me. I decided to hang out with my taiwanese counterpart before departing to the kind of homey feeling, like a strength before I move on further. I even had a taste of a taiwanese snack!

(After much struggle, the pics are up!)

The little house with the eggs was inside the Guatamalan family's home :) cute!!!

Reflexologist visit, climbed a volcano and general restlessness

The visit to the reflexologist resulted in the appearance of a hummingbird and a one hour story sharing episode from Toño, the reflexologist. This all started because I got sick (not sure eating what, whether meat, cheese or just too much chilies!), which resulted in Alejandro and his gf Giovanna (my friend Pepe's nephew and nephew's gf) from sharing the story of a couple who have cured her hyperthyroidism, and him, his seafood poisoning by a twist of the foot and by using magnet therapy. Sounds all too good to be true, but they are testaments of such treatments. Intrigued, I thought it wouldn't hurt to try an alternative healing method, especially the story of 7 years spent in Asia learning can nothing but pick my curiosity. I asked Gio if she knew why such accomplished couple decided to stay in a small town of San Luis Potosí (honestly an unattractive city where most jobs come from working for the corrupt govt...), which to this day does not appeal to me at all if it wasn't for the people, instead of moving onward to bigger cities where they can definitely make a fortune. She didn't really know other than they liked the city and that it is 'tranquil'. Somehow I wasn't satisfied with the answer.

Toño, a rather serious man of a thin figure, wasted no time in asking me what I came to see him for. I interrupted him by telling him that I think it is fascinating the kind of cures he has provided for my friends and that it is a priviledge to meet him. I've also inquired him about his years spent in Asia. Somehow, this propelled him into a one hour+ of his role on earth. He has actually spent 7 years in Taiwan and in China. The majority of his masters and his contacts are actually from Taiwan. He spent all those years in search of a master as well as doing a preparation (of 30 yrs in total) as a part of a secret society. He explained to me that the human soul has 7-8 states, and that his job is to help most of the livings souls to attain the 1st level, physical. Only thereafter, one can achieve a higher level of illumination. He informed me also that there are 9 levels of illuminated souls and that he has met a few, one of which is at the 8th level. As a comparison, the Dalai Lama is between lvl 1 & 2, and Shiva is about 3rd. Just to say that we are actually still struggling to attain physical peace! I cannot imagine how it feels to be an illuminated soul, as he has told me they speak to one another using more than one language, using some that we don't even know about. And on and on he went about how when time comes, there will be only 1 religion as one of the illuminated soul will lead the way to gather the heads of the world's religions together. (Keep in mind that all this was done in Spanish! I was kicking myself for not being able to understand every detail of his fascinating narration, yet thankful that I can grasp the majority of it!) Toño answered my question as to his purpose in staying in San Luis, without me having to verbalized it.

Finally after his story, he spent 20 min revising my feet. I didn't have to tell him anything and he simply took my feet and started pressing onto particular points. Meanwhile, he told me about how he has had, starting 5 days ago, seen images of an asian person who will visit/contact him. And this image keeps on getting stronger everyday. Initially he thought it could mean someone of his contact but he knew, the moment he saw me, that I was the one! Neither him nor I know how to interpret this, but this shall explain why he spent so long in sharing with me his life story!

After I got out of the consultation, Gio & Pepe told me that, while waiting outside, a hummingbird paid them a visit, at within inches distances of their eyes, where there no flowers! As magical it was to spend time with Toño, simultaneously nature spoke to them :) Gio also told me that Toño never talks much other than the consultation, but yet, he spoke for 1hr with me. What to take away from all this? I wish I have a clue!!

On my last evening, Gio and Ale cooked a special pasta dish with rosé wine for my goodbye meal. Thus ended my visit to San Luis Potosí and onward to Uruapan, in the state of Michoácan to pay a visit to a mexican friend.

Uruapan:

Day 1: couldn't find my friend, but did succeed in meeting a friendly couch surfing buddy.

Day 2: decided to walk and climb the inactive Volcano Parícutin, height of 2800m, it appears on many versions of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World. I decided I wanted to walk the 14km round-trip to the volcano. However, was approached by an old man and his son on horse. He proposed a guide for me as the path to the volcano is not well indicated and I may get lost. Seeing that I have no choice, I agreed only to see that he lets his 8 year old son guide me and leaves to find other customers. The walk to the volcano was an enjoyable one (I walked, the boy was on the horse). The climb lasted an excrutiating 30min! Assez pénible! Nonetheless, once on top, the air is thin and you are covered in clouds, what a weird feeling! Totally worth it though :)

The descent lasted barely 2-3min!! As for the return... I had walked only a third of the way and asked the boy to let me ride the horse! If it wasn't for the pain in my right knee, I would have walked! It was indeed an odd feeling to watch an eight year old pull your horse... I know this is normal protocol, but still made me somewhat uneasy.

That same day I met my friend but it seemed like the magic felt back in November wasn't the same anymore. Had I expected way too much? I had debated long and hard to come to Uruapan, as it is complete detour to get to Guatemala. I constantly kept on questioning whether it was meant to be, and finally the last night, the night I have decided to leave, my answer arrived. During the whole time I was in Uruapan, I had focused on my friend and paid little attention to my host, who had been more than hospitable! Attentive, open-spirit, friendly and generous. I did not appreciate what was in front of me because I felt disillusioned and that I had failed my own instincts, and failed to appreciate what was in front of me. When my host, Chucho, suggested to bring me to a restaurant for good guacamole, I couldn't refuse his kindness and thoughtfulness. (I was craving for guacamole the day before and couldn't find it). Our lunch conversation led to a fantastic exchange and self discovery. He questioned me and made me remember what I have forgotten about my past experiences. He challenged me to tell him what it is that I was looking for and what was the best experience I've had. Which brought beautiful memories. That's when I realized that I was still not ready to accept the lessons learned. I dislike breaking down in front of people! but it seems to happen more and more often these days. He managed to break down my barrier way faster than usual. Another lesson learned, not to be afraid to love, cry and to feel, whether in front of strangers or friends.

We later shared a lot of stories of our past, of how he went to the US alone when he was 16y.o. and had to struggle and find means of survival. He got into the black market business, almost got caught twice but escaped unharmed, and even had the cops show up after a 14.y.o. had eaten 3 of the space cookies (1kg worth...) his friend has made with the mom shouting that the school is doping his kid... somehow the cops just told the lady that all the boy needs is a glass of milk and called it a day! Talk about great Karma! I don't know what it is, but he seems to spread a trace of light wherever he goes. He speaks of knowledge, of learnt experience and has now veered into the right path in teaching children and owning a language school. Just about when I am about to connect to another soul, I am leaving... (that same night!) Such are my stories from Uruapan, the exact samething happened the last time I came!! Oh it breaks my heart that more of this will happen. But I am living, feeling, smiling, aching due to parting but all of these steps are part of life!

Sadly yet happilly, I said my goodbyes and am heading onward to Oaxaca, to see my sister Oaxaqueña, before heading to Guatemala. Slowly but surely :) The restlessness dissipated as I got on the bus... how strange.

Real de Catorce (Ghost town) y Media Luna

Real de Catorce:
It was a wealthy silver-mining town of 40,000 and later deserted as it happens to most mining towns. However, over the last few decades, the city has experienced a revival. Yet maintaining the name of "ghost town". Energy, in a spiritual sense, can be used to describe this city. This is not a city I had planned to visit, but as I got on the bus, watching the wide expanse of desert road and mountain, made my heart ache as I had the strongest urge to melt and become part of this desert. Unresistable sobs overcame me as I knew I had to be here. Why? I don't know. (as of today, 1 1/2 week after I paid the city a visit, the roadways to the city isclosed and the desert partly inundated thx to the raging Hurricane Alex!)
I've always loved mountains and I could only feel more attached to them and wanted more of them in my life! The scenery is breathtakingly beautiful and serene. And the air, the purest mountain air!! What a delight just to be breathing!! At 2756m altitude, I did not felt nauseous at all, however, climbing stairs was definitely more of a challenge :D

On the way, I met some Mexicans and ended up hanging out with one called Pepe. We ended up traveling a lot together. He later invited me to visit his hometown, in San Luis Potosi, and family (whose computer I am writing from right now!) We went on 2 horse rides, 1 to visit the abandoned ruins that used to be part of the town, and another to "El Quemado" (at almost 3000m) the sacred mountain of the Huichol (one of the many indigenous tribe in Mexico).

When we first visited the abandoned ruins, a voice in me spoke to me and told me that I needed to revisit it and continue relishing "The Alchimist", alone, amidst the abandoned ruins of the semi-desert. And thus, I did. (Phil, you'd be proud of me!) Those 4 hours of reading were a true delight! Where in the world can one be completely alone with such a beautiful panoramic view of the semi-desert while enjoying a delightful book? It is better than dessert. It is food to my soul, in a spiritual way. Highly recommended, to all those who love the mountain, need time out from the noises and chaos of cityl ife, or simply want to see something more out of the ordinary :)

As for traveling with Pepe, it was a very interesting experience as well as a challenging one. As a solo traveler, I enjoy the company of others, but never had I travel so long with another aside from mom and bf. He did teach me a lot of "caliche", which is a Mexican slang that is almost impossible to understand. It feels like I am learning a whole new set of vocabulary!! Somehow, a constant presence of another one made me feel impossible to have a tranquil conversation with myself. For all the time we were traveling together, I did not make a single comment on his heavy consumption of alcohol, cigarettes, and Mary Jane. However, while we were back at his hometown, one day he went over and started behaving like a fool, at which point, I decided it was high time to leave. My patience was running low. However, I couldn't because my clothing was still at the laundry service!! So, once again the circumstances of events have made a decision for me. We ended up going to Media Luna, a natural lake, where thermal spring water oozes from the bottom and in which I swam and swam, to my heart's content!! What a delight!! We later shared stories at the bondfire, and he told me a lot about the current Mexican political instability, as well as how, as a child, he used to play soccer with his friends in the woods by using captured fireflies (about 50 of them) as a light source.

Looking back, with all the ups and downs that we've had, I can say that I don't regret coming here or traveling with him, as he has been more than generous, let me sleep on his bed as he slept on the couch, his family has taken care of me as well while I got food poisoninig (yet again...), his cousin shared his knowledge of Mexican traditional plants to cure ailments, his mom taught me to make "Rajas" (a traditional Mexican dish with chile poblano, butter, garlic, cream and cheese). His mother has spoken to me about her concern of her son, who's have had a troubled past, a very difficult life but she was happy to see that meeting me, made her son lift his spirits and that I seem to be the only one that can get through to him. Dealings with narcotics, divorced with a child of 10 y.o. (he needs to pay his ex-wife everytime he wants to see his son), watched his son go through heart surgery at the age of 7, watching friends go due to the business he used to be involved in, incredibly stressful jobs as well as ruining his right hand by painting cars... and the list goes on. That list gave me a lot to think about my own life!

Throughout the times we were together, I never judged him and tried to give him the voice of reason. The time when I knew I did the right thing is when Pepe told me, on our way back from Media Luna, "Before I knew from what I will die from. But now, I am enjoying life and want more of it". And I know, from the bottom of my heart, that he can change and has the will to. But that'll take a bit more time thanks to 15yrs of heavy consumption. I am greatful for a happy childhood with lots of love from friends and family, which allowed me to grow up to be a balanced individual, and thus in order to help others who were not as fortunate, as my friend Pepe. I am happy I have given him the benefit of the doubt, or rather the circumstances have made me take that decision!

No, this is now how I envisioned my travel to be, and I am behind my initial itinerary by lots. But then again, I purposely wanted to let the unexpected happen and ride the stream of life. As I am finishing this post, my infection is slowly fading and I have an appointment with a reflexologist who has studied 8 years in China and seem to be quite a savant!

*****

On anothe note, I'd like to quote my good friend who has written the following to me, after my post of Querétaro. It has given me strength to go on! He/She has encapsulated the essence of my feelings so eloquently that I must share with my readers:

"You can be free any place you are and at any time. Now that you know what it is you search for, you will simply have to do it whatever situation you find yourself in. Flirting based on my humble observation, is the natural dance that humans do when they interact. It is a beautiful melody that can be watched and experienced by all. Simple, electric and so full of energy, it leaves the spirit and soul with this really good groove for days afterwards. You are beautiful Jenny, inside and out, and you are radiating all the fireworks that are happening to you to the world. Gosh, those guys and girls are really lucky to have you around - Firecracker, that is my name for you."