Bolivia - In love with La Paz

Villazón & Tupiza, Bolivia (Jan 23-24, 2011)
Nuestra Señora de La Paz, Bolivia (Jan 25-Feb 7, 2011)

Nuestra Señora de La Paz = Our Lady of Peace

Crossed the border from Argentina into Bolivia, a simple procedure of border leaving the city of "La Quiaca" (Argentina), and into the first border city of Bolivia called "Villazón". We arrived in the cold morning of around 6AM, at 3400m it was freezing. At Villazón, we all crammed into the small shelter full with travelers sleeping on the floor to shield outselves from the cold while waiting for dawn and with 2 women selling hot coffee out of a ambulent cart. I recall watching the people in the bus wearing the kind of winter jacket (puffy down-like jacket) I have in Canada while I was hoping I will survive the night ride with my 5 layers of cotton & fleece and my alpaca hat... at around 5C with the wind blowing, I could feel the hardened thin layer of my jeans scraping against my skin, even the usually unbreathable hiking shoes did not provide the warmth required as we waited over an hour for the Argentinian immigration office to open its doors!!

  

Chola in her traditional cloth

Arrived in La Paz just in time for the "Feria de Alasitas" (Fair of all things small), celebrated at the end of January until the 1st week of February. Met up with my friend Antonio, a Peruvian who owns a vegetarian restaurant in La Paz. Antonio has been living in La Paz for more than 13 years and has decided to continue his life here and he has been one of the keys things to make me fall in love with La Paz, the administrative capital and 2nd largest city in population of Bolivia. The city's hills vary in elevation of 3000m to 4100m, with the city centre square at 3660m. La Paz is renowned for its unique markets, very unusual topography, and traditional culture. La Paz is located in the valleys of the Andes, and is closer to the Eastern split of the Altiplano region. Therefore, it is closer to the famous mountains such as the Illimani (guardian of La Paz at 6438m), Huayna Potosi (6088m), Mururata (5871m), and Illampu (6368m). On the Western side of the Altiplano divide, about an hour to the West of the La Paz, is the site of the tallest mountain in Bolivia and 9th tallest mountain in the Andes, the Sajama Volcano.



La Feria de Alasitas, is a way that the Paseños (People from La Paz) celebrate the upcoming new year. The same way we, in the western world, make a new year resolution mentally, they, the Paseños, purchase the things they desire to accomplish for the upcoming year in miniature and then have them blessed by an indigenous priest. Therefore one can find mostly paper money, pots of gold, frogs (symbol of abundance), small shops, cars, houses, certificates and diplomas, etc. in miniature. The physical representation of the goals in the house is a constant reminder to work hard toward achieving that goal.



Ekekos: Andean God of abundance



Ekeko: Andean God of abundance, fetility and prosperity, of origin Tiahuanacota, inherited from the Aymaras of Collasuyu and the nation of Kallawaya. The Ekeko and the "Fair of Alasitas" form part of the Cultural Patrimonio of the city of La Paz.

Api and pastel

As part of the fair, there is ample amount of food, amusement toys for children and shamans and clairvoyants. We consulted a senior man, who is suppose to tell you your future by reading leaves of coca... however, he resulted to speak intelligibly in Spanish, or the other option is Aymara/Quechua (2 indigenous local languages), so basically we had no clue what he said... We had more success with a younger man using melted lead to read our future. One throws a spoonfull of melted led into a bucket of cold water to form a shape. This shape is later read to tell one's future :) Was fun! I also had my first api, a typical Andean drink made from ground black corn (or mix colour) with a tinge of cinnamon and clove, typically served hot in the altiplano of Bolivia. The api is typically served with pastel. (I had later found the best pastel in Potosi !!) Pastel is a wheat dough filled with pieces of cheese, gets puffed when fried (basically like Queue de castor/beaver tail but thinner though and filled with cheese inside, YUM). 

Quinoa pie - My favorite dish by far !!!

Staying with Antonio made eating vegetarian food become a de-facto. As I live in the attic of the restaurant, I simply ate absolutely delicious Andean vegetarian food that I almost turned vegetarian! 

• Pastel de Quinua al horno (Oven baked quinoa pie - pic on left)
• Lentejas con salsa de zanahorias (Lentil pie with carrot sauce)
• Torta español (Spanish pie)
• Guiso de frijoles (bean stew/casserole)
• Sopa de hierbas (Herb soup)
• Gigantic salad as entrée

The introduction to all things Andean was a pleasant surprise to me as well. The food culture is quite varied in La Paz, whereas most of Bolivia is meat heavy, La Paz has its trends and its share of health conscious folks. There is also something in the energy of the city that leaves one "bouche-bée" when one looks out onto the Illimani with its snowed peaks. And that is a typical view of the city!! How can one not feel the mysticism and the spirituality that abound in the midst of the chaotic traffic!

Alfajores de cañahua

Another discovery that I totally fell in love with is the CAÑAHUA. The grain grows well between 3500 and 4100 m, and is highly resistant to frost, daright, salty soil and pests. It is an important source of protein and has traditionally been a vital alternative source to meat and milk products in the rural areas of the high Andes. Its balanced composition of amino acids is similar to the composition of the casein milk protein and traditionally it is used in weaning mixtures. The grain also has high levels of dietary fibre, iron, unsaturated fats, and sugar.

I've had it as cookies and as alfajores... omg!!! trop délicieux!! I could eat 1 everyday... Way better than the alfajores in Argentina :D



A tray of coca leaves :)



On a Thursday evening, my friend Antonio brought me to a Bolivian version of "Peña", which is different than the Argentinian version. Consists of a bar that plays bolivian folkloric music and instead of serving you peanuts, the tray is filled with coca leaves :) Talk about a big capital, full of indigenous influence, what a distinctively different atmosphere it creates to the vibes of the city :)

 

My chilean family in La Paz :)

Another element that made me fell at home in La Paz is the connections I made with my ex co-worker, Doña Miriam, whom I have worked with in Honduras (the blog can be viewed under July 2010). She has previously told me, back in July 2010, that if I was to visit La Paz in my journey, give her daughter a call, and maybe she will be in La Paz as well. I called her daughter and left a message. Her daughter did not call back, but instead Doña Miriam herself called me back!!! What a pleasant surprise!!  She has just arrived in La Paz 3 days ago... :) She invited me over for lunch and to meet her 3 daughters and from there on, I have been going back every day for the last few days of my stay in La Paz. I got along super well with her daughters and spent lots of time with them. Friendly and caring girls, with hearts as big as her mother. Home made food with good company, I was happy happy happy. Estaba feliz!!



Several conversations that Antonio and I had together were truly inspiring. He is a traveled man (in the spiritual sense), whose path has been revealed to him ever since he has stepped foot onto Bolivia. Leaving Peru with nothing more but a small day pack and a few dollars, working in a vegetarian restaurant, to owning one of his own, to starting and taking part of a community project where growing organic crops and animals and homeschool are essential elements to a new healthy, sane way of living. Along his paths, he has also met several shamans, take part in all things in the same "onda", as one would translate it into "wave". His entourage is nothing but people with good intentions, caring about nature, or in one way or another very connected to their spirituality. Needless to say that speaking with him, was like letting the flow of energy flow in and out. Not only words are being exchanged, tremendous amount of positive energy as well. This wonderful way of exchanging recharged me with energy, with purpose and with hope once again, something much needed as part of a lengthy trip.

He encouraged me to let go, to feel, to put the logical mind to rest and open my heart. He asked me what is the journey that we are all seeking for?

• Love without expectations nor boundaries
• Love oneself, accept oneself
• Not to be afraid of listening to one's heart
• Give passionately and with love

They are all good reasons, but he told me the real journey is only 30cm. I couldn't realize what that 30cm was... I felt trapped, I was on my way but yet... not yet. He explained to me that's the distance between the mind and the heart. At which point he told me to let go of the mind and cross over to the other side and join him. I tried very hard... but was almost there but couldn't do it. There was a trapped energy. I realize I still have some work to do with myself. But La Paz is going to be key in my growth... what lies ahead... I can't wait to find out!


Children playing charango at the Alasita Fair



However, like every thing that is good and wonderful, I had to say goodbye to La Paz, although I knew it is only a temporary goodbye, because this city remains marked in my heart, with its charms, its people, its mysticism, and my love for it is so strong, it is the 3rd city I have ever considered living in... :)  And I realized it within the 1st day, although I arrived with frozen toes, unable to sleep all night in the cold bus ride (this seem to be a constant variable in my travel!), with the attitude threathening to give me a headache, but despite all that, the peaceful sensation the city offers is so soothing.

1 - Quéretaro, Mexico
2 - Buenos Aires, Argentina
3 - La Paz, Bolivia 

(In chronological order, not of preference)

oh and I had the BEST CRÈME BRÛLÉE in La Paz (in a french resto of course) !!!