Running against time: A race towards Panama

Under the Waterfalls! Parque Nacional: Rincon de la Vieja

Lago Atitlan, Guatemala

First time ever on my trip that I had a time constraint: race toward the flight that I booked from Panama to Peru to meet my dear Samantha in Argentina! I had a month to go from Guatemala down to Panama, crossing through El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama while trying to visit every country a lil bit before... a daunting task for someone who took about 6 months to visit 3 countries!


The race begins by first leaving Xela on Oct.22. On my way back to Guate City, I had to visit the famous Laguna Atitlan. Paid a visit to the usual suspects from Casa Argentina in San Pedro La Laguna. Spent 5 days vedging on the hamac and having the boys cook for me, as I was striken by some kind of infection again... Once recovered, we went kayaking across the Laguna in 3 teams: 2 Argentinians, 2 Japanese, and the German team (the German and German-speaking me!). We were blessed with a beautiful day and the view is just aboslutely gorgeous! All teams were quite balanced except for the Japanese team, composed of a guy and a girl. The Jap girl was dressed like a city model, with Uggs-like boot, black leggins, jean shorts, fluffy white-t, and a set of sunglasses big enough to cover half her face, in a weather that is arounc 25C. Let's just say, everytime we look back, I saw a clown dabbling at the water and her partner in the back paddling for two... it was a sight to behold. I am crippled with laughter as I recall the poor Jap !! LOL


After San Pedro La Laguna, I headed towards Panajachel and Sololá. In Pana, had the best black chocolate in Latin America! ... made by an Italian :) Caught up with an Hondurenean street artist whom I met in Casa Argentina, and another artist whom I met in Honduras, both working in Pana. Took a trip to the market day in nearby Sololá and took some great fotos of the traditional trajes. The men from this city has one of the most elaborate clothes! The highlight of my trip was tasting iguana in tomato sauce :D Quite yummy, with skin included!

Finally a quick visit to my friends in Guatemala City, had some fiambre (rojo y blanco), which is the traditional food eaten on the day of the death, Nov.1st. It consists of a cold plate full of marinated vegetables, meat, sausages and egg. I was then tempted by the stories of other delicious food from Guatemala, but only if I come back and visit them over Christmas :(  But since the race is on, I was off to El Salvador.

San Salvador, the capital of El Salvador, did not have much to offer in terms of sights, it was even quite dangerous in many parts of the city. However, the market food was definitely more varied than that of Guatemala, which was a delight! And I had the long-awaited pupusas and tamales dulces! Albeit I was there only for 2 days, the few people I have met have left an ever-lasting impression on the famous friendliness of Salvadoreans.

• On the bus ride, I chatted up with a Salvadorean, working in government funded micro-financing, whom left me his phone number in case I come back to the city so he can show me around.
• At the "Ximena's Guest House" in which I stayed, the employee, Alfredo, who attended the desk was extremely helpful giving me all the tips regarding the city and we spent 2 nights chatting and sharing stories, and of course, pupusas :) It still amazes me sometimes how fast can two beings relate and bond. I really liked his energy and his vibe. Thanks to his company, San Salvador was definitely memorable and made me want to revisit!
• Then comes the shop owner of the pupuseria! I knocked on the door the 2nd night in a row, however to find it closed. They opened to told me that they've finished all there is to serve and to come back the next day. However, I pleaded with them as I was to leave El Salvador early morning and wanted to have my last pupusas. Finally they decided to re-open for me and while I waited, the girl spoke to me about her dad's music band that plays Cumbia. Since I've never heard of it, she took out a CD of her father's band and handed it over. Not only did they re-open to serve me food that costed a little over $1, I was gifted a music CD to remember!
• Then there was this lady...  whom approached me at the hopping mall and talked me into giving her some money due to some unforseen circumstance of hers. Long story short, I fell for her story, although the more I thought about it, the faker her acting was... let it be an experience to learn from :D

I left El Salvador in hurry, a little sad to leave Alfredo but decided not to dwell on it as one must keep going, such is the path I have chosen. Onward to Nicaragua, in search of the beautiful serene island of Corn Island.

Managua, capital of Nicaragua, was not a pretty sight. I do not recall how many times I was warned about the dangers of walking alone, or even accompanied in parts of the city. Robberies abound whether on the streets or by taxi drivers... really made me felt uneasy, however I managed to pass a day in the city without incident. Was even approached and chatted up by a helpful Nicaraguense to show me the road and shared me his life story of how he came to discover... guess who? God :D  Albeit it isn't my favorite topic, he had lived a hard life. Thus listening to his recovery, having gone through drug gangs, in and out of jail, was definitely heart-warming.

Little did I know that the search for this island on the Carribean coast of Nicaragua was about to be a hectic experience. I had chosen to skip several "must-see" cities in Nicaragua in exchange for the island due to the time constraint. So off I went on one of the longuest, and hardest trips to head to the coast.

Itiniary:

• Overnight bus: Managua to El Rama. 9:30pm - 3:30am (6hrs) with the bus driver pumping pop music all night long
• Panga (canoe armed with engine): El Rama to Bluefields. 6am - 7:45am (1h45)
• Panga: Bluefields to Bluff. 15min ride
• Cargo boat: Bluff to Big Corn Island: 5.5 hrs
• Panga: Big Corn Island to Small Corn Island: 1hr of INSANE ROLLER COASTER RIDE

IDEALLY and THEORETICALLY, the trip takes about a full day to accomplish. But then again, I was in Nicaragua and to the mercy of nature. I had planned, since Guatemala, to take the Cargo Boat that only leaves once a week on Sunday instead of the passenger boat to Corn Island thanks to a tip from a friend. What happened? The boat kept on being delayed and delayed... we, a group of travellers that kept me sane, waited 4 days and 3 nights for the cargo boat. We literally waited in front of the dock from morning till dusk, moved to the hotel, slept, came back to the dock in the morning, wash, rinse, repeat for 4 days!!!!!  The boat did not arrive due to the weather condition... Had we known, we would have flown, like most of the folks that arrive at the island!! The best part is, we were stuck on this island called "Bluff". I kid you not. The whole thing seemed like a bluff to keep visitors on the island to help the local economy?!?

The Cargo boat that brought us to the island was turbulent enough to made one of our friend sick, along with one of the pig that was travelling with us (it is after all, a cargo boat), leaving some remenant semi-.digested food on my friend's backpack. Fun.

The long awaited boat ride with my 2 travel companions:
Jason and the vomiting pig

In comparison, the last Panga that brought us from Big Corn to Small Corn was a pure roller coaster ride!! The canoe was made of pure wood, and bounced like no tomorrow with any wave that passed by. Seated up in the front, I bounced and flew out of my seat at every second wave, it left me gripping to the front and back seat, hoping that the piece of wood (front seat), would not fly off with me! At one point, I even felt 1G? I don't know but it got my heart falling like the roller coaster, except worse cuz the itiniary is not defined... quite the adrenaline rush!! Probably 2nd to my almost drowning experience in the river in Honduras!

Little Corn Island: Was it worth the agonizing wait? I'd say yes. It is a beautiful island that haven't been over-run by tourists and with no cars, leaving the island quiet and undisturbed. We ate very well, bathed in the crystal clear carribean water, and dived :) Out of the 4 dives, the last one at Shark's Hole made it all worth it. The weather was cooperating and the water completely still. We headed out on a semi-open cave dive site and I saw, the most amazing sight, worthy of Discovery Channel. We arrived at an open cave location and saw a nurse shark resting at the bottom and with thousands of tiny fishes swimming in unison like that of a whirlwind! Swishing from left to right, and then like a spiral spinning up towards the opening where the light shines through to the cave, lighting up every inch of the crystal clear water. What a breathtaking sight! Living it, seeing it with my own eyes... WAOW. The whole trip was worth that moment! (Looks like this, but with the nurse shark resting at the bottom, and the fish swimming in a spiral shape :) )

Finally it was time to say goodbye to the island. I happily bid goodbye and dreaded toward my return trip towards Managua, hoping that this time it'll turn out okay and thankfully it did! The water was so calm, the trip was done indeed in one day, long but tolerable.


On the last segment of bus ride towards Managua, the seat beside me on the night bus was left empty. At around 10pm, a man got on and poured his soul and his life story to me. To my astonishment, he just wanted to share without trying to pick me up (for once!). Full of energy, positivism about life, at a bare 23 y.o. he owns his own cheese and cream making factory and distribution along with 2 partners, and has an absolutely positive outlook on life and great morals. A very uplifting story to hear :)

Finally arriving at the border of Nicaragua, about to cross into Costa Rica. Met an middle-aged man, who was aboslutely interested in showing me Nicaragua, as I was on the verge of leaving the coutry. Left me 2 phone numbers of Nicaragua, and 2 other numbers of his daughter in Miami, and gave me a crocodile tooth so I won't forget him! Later wrote me a love email?! What is it with Nicaraguense? They are really direct when they want something, and definitely like to share their life stories. Whatever propelled them to do that with me, perhaps the fact to share how life can be quite difficult but yet they make it quite well, and are happy that visitors come from all over the globe to see their humble country. That'll be my take on it.

Beef Soup in Costa Rica

Rattlesnake found on the side
of the street!

Costa Rica, the pearl of Central America in terms of natural paradise? I cannot say with certainty as I was racing by... Stayed in Liberia and visited 2 national parcs: Santa Rosa and Rincón de la Vieja. Actually, the highlight of the visit wasn't the nature itself, as it feels like I did not choose the best spot to visit, but rather the encounter of a couple, Pat & Joe, whom have made my trip a lot more interesting! I decided to defy the system of tourism and bus my way into the Parcs (instead of booking tours costing $20-40US just for the transportation), which often requires 2-3 hours of walk until I get to the park's entrance. I hitch-hiked and was lucky to be picked up by Pat & Joe, a Mexican and American couple who are travelling through Costa Rica on their honeymoon. Thanks to them, I was able to see parts of Costa Rica that I wouldn't usually be able to reach by public transportation!! (Yes I bumped into them again inside the park on the 2nd day, thus a 2nd lift) i.e. Rattlesnake! (I have a wonderful pic of it!! give me one week to post it!)

Pretty nifty! I went to the parks without any expectations, even to the point of not being able to get into the park as it would have taken me all day to walk to the entrance, but after all, it all turned out quite perfectly :) Made some friendly faces, an invite to L.A., and defy my own stress of living the unplanned route. (It caused me so much agony the night before, lol)

Sum up: Met two really friendly Ticos (people from Costa Rica) from the internet café in Liberia who went out of their way to help me with bus schedules and recommendations of the area. The only bad thing about Liberia is that I left with 8 bites on arms that, later my taxi driver told me, were from bed ants (some kind of hormigas negras). All 8 of them swell so much to gave me a disproportionate arm size :(   Yay, joy of travelling!

Next: Race towards Panama, but it deserves a post on its own...