Villa Tunari... a place of intense heat, humidity but tolerable and enjoyable thanks to its tranquility and my Bolivian boyfriend, Gustavo Olguín, who has relentlessly showed me, shared with me, all that Bolivian culture and latin american culture has to offer, whether it be music, local expressions, culinary delights, place of interests, and participate in all kinds of bolivian parties and festivities, from family BBQs, his parents' silver anniversary to Villa Tunari's anniversary and the Virgin of Urkupiña :) I have lived and experienced fully, the whole range of Bolivian lifestyle, with a local, intimately and passionately. He once commented that I want to be a Latina, and in retrospect, that was not an entirely incorrect statement, because of all the people that I have met in my travels, Latin Americans have showed me such a passionate and effervescent way to express themselves, very much humane, touchy, spontaneous, amiable and somewhat primeval, naive and guileless, manners in which I have always liked and preferred to the rather colder and distant interaction of my asian background and my north american upbringing. Yes, I fell in love with Latin America and its people, its culture, its language, its beauty, its nature, its indulgent and simplistic way of living, and of a latino man... To get a real taste of a country, one must try all its different flavours, and especially to experience the so talked about romanticism of Latinos, the world-known lovers... in the very grounds where they breed! Little do I know that I fell upon a Don Juan...!!!
BBQ at Gustavo's house |
Villa Tunari had almost all I needed for a quiet life, except for the suffocating heat! but blessed with a pool, I was able to tolerate and survive! I had found a nice apartment with my own kitchen, which was instrumental for my recovery as Bolivia's food is a meat-heavy and portion-heavy nation!! If one eats out everyday, although economically speaking, it is rather a bargain, one's waistline will nothing but increase and so is one's cholesterol!! I remember politely asking Gustavo's cousin, Pepe (nickname for Jose), once while they were having "pollo frito" (fried chicken) (something that since my stay in Central America where for almost a week I had nothing much to eat other than that everyday, had become a food that I abhor) and I sat watching : "where is the leafy greens in your plate?" He answered "llahua" with a shining big smile! (pronounced "yahua" and it is the Quecha, indigenous language, word for hot pepper sauce on every restaurant table for those who like life on the spicy side)... Not to mention the exaggerated consumption of soft drinks, especially that of coca-cola with every meal and after sports practice! Unlike at home, healthy eating in Bolivia is not a concept that is practiced, it is rather unknown! I take it that it is partly due to lack of resources and education, but as well influenced by the culturally strong "Carpe Diem" practice that permeates in all aspects of life.
Gustavo enjoying Chinese Food |
Upon my return from Peru, I had arrived at a time where the little village became a town full of festivities. During the winter months of June to August, the town was full to the brim with all kinds of celebrations that kept us busy and ... sleepless :)
Mysteriositas - folkloric expression of Bolivian music and dance |
June 4: Villa Tunari's anniversary
Evo Morales, President of Bolivia (2nd from the left) |
Mariachi Juarez |
June 12: Santo de San Antonio: Mariachi Juarez
A two-day celebration of the Saint "San Antonio" where folklore dancers and music bands were hired, accompanied with lots of street food, fireworks and the Bolivian favorites: beer! The evening's highlight was the band of Mariachi called Mariachi Juarez! All dressed in their sexy black Mariachi costume singing romantic songs and inviting the crowd to chime in. The tight costume delineate their posterior in a very flattering way. My moment of bliss is when they turn their back on me :)
June 12: Pelea de Gallos (Cock-fights)
For the event of the festivities, the town had improvised a small cock ring in the backyard of a private house for cock fights, an illegal practice in Bolivia. Not exactly my cup of tea, but for the sake of getting to experience something new, I decided to have a peek and see how such a sport is done, prepared and gambled on. The cocks are prepared by banding a sharp metal pin to the inside of each leg, weighted as the fights are weight-based, and allowed to pick at each other's neck aggressively while its respective owners are holdig them to create animosity and on they go. The fights last a long 40 minutes! By the middle of the 2nd round I had to leave as I wasn't able to stomach the cruelty of the "sport". As suspected, the audience is about 95% men, there were but 2 women in the crowd, I included. It is also interesting to note that the lowest bid is 100$ (yes the bids are in dollars not in Bolivians pesos)! These men are all dressed in simple t-shirt and jeans, some torn and dirty like that of a mechanic... yet shouting sums that are all above the month's minimum wage of Bolivia. It was a sight to behold.
Hot-dog & sausage eating Fest! |
June 23: San Juan de Bautista
A pagan festival originated from the north of Europe (today Finland and Sweden) where folks dance around a bond-fire to celebrate the arrival of summer solstice. After the arrival of this festival to Spain, it had been re-appropriated by the Church, christianized and brought over to Latin America during its colonial times of conquest as a date of celebration for the birth of San Juan Bautista. This celebration symbolizes purification, fertility and the abundance of what nature provides us. Modern day celebration consists of some bond-fires (although it is now forbidden), and the ingestion of sausages and hot-dogs across the nation. Not sure where the idea of the dogs come from...!
June 30: Boda de Plata (Silver anniversary)
Silver anniversary of Gustavo's parents in Quillacollo, suburb of Cochabamba. A wedding vows renewal party in which I partied with all the relatives of Gustavo's family, about 200 members without counting the friends and guests! French style food was served, beer, cocktail drinks and liquors on ice were poured whilst being entertained by Mariachi music, folklore and Bolivian pop music. Young and old, we all danced the night away!
July 5: Lucha Libre (Wrestling. WWF of the Cholitas!)
Wrestling in Bolivia is quite a phenomenon and distinct for the presence of not only men, but women... in their traditional dress!!! I have always heard of Wrestling in La Paz of the Cholas but never had a chance to see it... until they came to Villa Tunari!! What a sight it was to watch plum, rounded coffee-coloured indigenous ladies in elegant ankle length puffy skirts throwing each other around... Definitely worth the 20Bs (Bolivianos, an equilvalent of 3$) for the show.
Aug5-6: Feria de pescados (Fish Fair)
By far the biggest drunkfest, er I mean celebration, of Villa Tunari, where people from all over the country crowd in to party with music with the pretense of eating fish!! The fair lasts 2 days and once admitted, the partygoers are presented with numerous stands of grilled & fried white-water fish and the various famous Bolivian bands illuminating the night away. Great fun it was to dance to mostly Bolivian music and to finally get to meet the so-talked about "Etiqueta Negra", "Voltaje" and "Jarana" bands of Bolivia. Thanks to my boyfriend, I have been introduced to this music for some time now and was able to appreciate and chime in with the Bolivians! I am just like any Boliviana by now :) After the music faded, the youngsters continued the evening by parking their tuned cars with massive sound systems around the plaza and each car was surrounded by its own groupie which danced and drank. Yes... alcohol is served... at all hours. I have noticed that it is not uncommon for folks to knock on the doors of the liquor store or grocery store in the middle of the night to purchase alcohol. If the owner is profit-oriented enough, will wake up and deliver the goods to the beer-thirsty abled bodies... I've seen it done times and times over and done it myself, lol. We survived the drunkenfest unharmed however one of Gustavo's friend stranded off alone one evening and woke up the next day in the middle of the street minus shoes and cell phone...
Aug 13-16: Virgen of Urkupiña w/ Oliver & Gus (Cochabamba)
Another drinking fest, er I mean the biggest celebration of Cochabamba where they celebrate the Virgin of Urkupiña. For this year's celebration, they brought in 25 virgins for the occasion. The virgins are brought in from different parts of Bolivia and there were also international virgins from Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina, Peru, Colombia and even Poland! For the occasion, the city of Cochabamba was also graced by the presence of the only two virgins in the world that are made of painting: the Virgin of Socavon (Oruro, Bolivia) and the most famous virgin of Latin America, the Virgin of Guadalupe from Mexico! What does this celebration consist of? It is a small version of Carnaval de Oruro where people of all age put on the different traditional dress and parade & dance through the streets. A little less organized than Oruro and, more uncontrolled drinking involved... This is where for the first time I saw some real brawl with my own eyes!! Oh the youngsters, after ingesting much alcohol, become pompous, primeval and uncontrolled gorillas out there to conquer the world!!
At Toro Toro: Oliver, me, Gustavo |
Aug 18-19: Toro Toro revisited with Gustavo & Oliver
A tribute to one of my favorite place and most serene village (Yes, more remote and serene than Villa Tunari!) of Toro Toro (see previous blog entry) with my beloved latino Gustavo and my Canadian friend Oliver who came to visit me in Bolivia! Indeed the experience proved to be more romantic with a loved one and more enjoyable with a Candian counterpart!!! :)
Gustavo playing guitar & singing in the plaza |
Aside from the above-mentionned festivities, there are occasional weekend outing to the ONLY club in the village and some Karaoke outings (to my surprise very popular in Bolivia! and my Gustavo is quite a singer himself !! How can a woman resist a sexy latino singing romantic songs to her ears?!?) Other times, the youngsters (usually men) would gather in the central plaza, accompanied by the ubiquitous beer and/or some kind of hard liquor, and somehow always end up with a session of guitar and singing. One thing that does not cease to amaze me is the presence of musical talents in men, young or old!!! However, it is still very much a guy thing, I have yet to see a girl pick up a guitar and sing along with the boys. The musical presence is something I have come to appreciate in their culture. Something that brings colour and joy to the sometime monotonous life! I used to dislike romantic songs, but thanks to my Gustavo, I have come to see it from a different perspective. It grows on ya :)
My room in Villa Tunari! |
As for my quiet life in the tropics when we were not partaking in the festivities...
In the evenings, as the only way to keep my room from being a steaming oven, I would keep both the window and the door wide open inviting, rather pleading, the cool air of the night to pay me a visit and to alleviate me from the suffocating heat. As I often sat on the tile floor for chillier temperature for an evening read, I am visited by all kinds of moths and night insects, odd, tiny, big, noisy, slimy, etc. of all colours. The evenings also come accompanied with "blop" sound of toads, the shrill drone of cicadas, the batting sound of the bats swooping by, the neighbouring female cat's insistent cry in heat, however these wonderful nature sounds are drowned by the karaoke and the disco over the weekend. As a city child, fireflies are creatures of fairy tales and once upon a time stories, whereas here, they shine their secrets timidly in the soccer field in which I do my daily jog. If it wasn't for the existence of internet, it feels like Villa Tunari is a little jewel of the tropics, lost in time, with a tiny market where the sellers are mostly cholas in their traditional dress and 2 typically waist-length braids. Another aspect of the tranquility of the village can be seen by the occasional folk who would pass the night, as it is rather safe, on one of the benches located in the central plaza, whether they be homeless, itinerant workers or contractual workers who hadn't had the means or for whatever reason to rent a room for the night. I don't blame them, even envy them, as it is one of the coolest area of the city, shaded by tall palm trees and a variety of trees on all corners overlooking onto the main church and blessed by a semi-constant breeze; it is not a bad place to pass the evening IMO. However, as a lone girl, as in anywhere in Latin America, I won't be able to walk by without receiving unsolicited attention in the forms of "goods" inspection, whistling, holler, or direct approaches. I particularly got the attention of the village official drunkard, Oscar, whom has detected my jogging pattern and awaits me in the football field...
Gustavo enjoying fried "pacu" |
Baby goat from Toro Toro |
Pujllay! (Traditional dress/dance) |
The world has so much to see, to taste, to experience and to live. The idea of being prohibited of a freedom, such as freedom of speech, association, job opportunity, respect in all aspects of society, in all honesty, a freedom any human being deserves and has the rights to, regardless of the gender, is unacceptable. Especially looking back at history, how much sufferance have women endured under the hands of power-tripping men thanks to their greed from the abuse of power, how much the previous generations of women have fought with their sweat, blood and life against their oppressors... they have not fought in vain but the fight is far from over. Many parts of the world is still far behind in terms of social development compared to what the western world has achieved, especially when it comes to gender equality.
Toddlers dancing to "Morenada" |
This time, I came to another eye-opener realization that we, those of us in the western society, take for granted, freedom.
The mere fact of knowing the existence of gender equality exists is not enough; one needs to live it to understand it, as well as live the lack thereof to fully grasp the its repercussions. Something that we take for granted back home, in this part of the world is a privilege or an unreachable dream. Knowledge is power they say, indeed it is. I lament for the women in this country, and in all countries where women still endure the cruelty engendered by machismo, because they, unlike us in the western world, can only "phantom" its existence and live a suppressed existence. In all honesty, sometimes the expression of machismo is not far from slavery camouflaged under pleasantries and beguilements.
Girl selling "salchipapa" |
I feel extremely lucky to have grown up in Canada, and having seen and lived the kind of rights women have, something that a significant percentage of women in developing world or religiously oppressive regime, are still decades away from attaining. I will not be undermined nor be oppressed by machismo and will stand for my right to be a human being with my rights to freedom.
Nonetheless, as I reflect upon my experience 9 months later, it had been a beautiful romantic and rich cultural experience of Bolivia and its people as well as a trying yet strengthening emotional experience. We are conditioned by the environment we live in, thus I do not blame Gustavo for being the way he is, as he is the very byproduct of his society and his parents' upbringing. Love does not blind me, it does however weaken me. However, I had to take a decision to end my stay in Villa Tunari because what was once an intriguing place to discover and live, had become an incarceration for my mind and soul.
I had finally come to accept that it was time to come home and was mentally ready to end a planned one year trip which extended to 1 1/2 year due to "El Amor" :) With a flight ticket in hand, said my goodbyes, and am slowly making my way back home.
Home, sweet home, I am very much looking forward for it now. It is time to embrace my culture, my origins, my society and hug my family and friends!